San Miguel de Allende is a small picturesque Mexican town. With all modern construction halted in 1926 to preserve the town as an Historic Site, the consequence is a distinctly Mexican flavor in earth tones with a hint of Cosmopolitan Euro flair. For this reason and so many others, the town has been a beacon for foreigners, Americans in particular, who want the slower pace, the kitschy life and the nice exchange rate. After WWII, the the GI Bill allowed American Veterans to get their education abroad and they flocked to San Miguel’s picturesque hills and renowned art school, Instituto Allende.
The foreign influence has had an effect on the town, in several ways. San Miguel is one of the most expensive Mexican towns, but it also has a vision and action of sustainability. Here you will find an organic store, several types of co-ops, and programs that work towards the sustainability of the environment, the economy and the community. The Green Map is a place to consult to shop at such places. Some of the places are difficult or impossible to find, but searching for them through the sloping, cobblestoned streets is an enjoyable experience in itself. There you will find Café de la Luz. From 7:00 until 3:00 the café serves a predominantly organic, fair trade, worker cooperative menu. The coffee is outstanding and you can get a plate of homemade hotcakes, made by Joe, but maybe not for much longer. Joe and his wife Lydia, who is the Director of the Center for Global Justice, are only there until November. Ideally Joe will pass the Café on to a local Mexican to continue the good work.
The Center for Global Justice will remain and will continue its good work. At 2:00 the front of Café de la Luz opens up and becomes a co-op store that sells local women’s wares. Handmade blankets, pillows, purses and even lavender sache’s fill the stores shelves and stack up behind the counter. The goods are not only handmade by locals, rather than machine made and shipped in from factories, but all of the profits go directly to the women who make them and help to sustain and lift up their families and communities. This co-op is one of the projects that the Center for Global Justice under Lydia’s care has worked to create.
Formed in 2003 to educate the public about the harms of globalization and Free Trade that have come about since NAFTA, the Center for Global Justice does more than just dispense information. The members of the center work hard to propose and enact solutions, many of which are currently in action and working well as a way to keep Mexicans out of poverty and their communities intact by using the center’s knowledge and resources.
There are several hostels in San Miguel de Allende, most will run about 100 pesos a night. We stayed at the Iron House Hostel. It is clean-ish and quiet-ish (neighbors are a little noisy), with beautiful iron work and a roof that is nice to enjoy the view from, while you wait for your laundry to dry. Located at the foot of the main town area, it is just a small hike to the center square of town from Iron House. Again, 100 pesos - can't be beat.
All along the way to the various points of interest, there are shops and café’s. Most of the shops contain touristy items that you’ll find anywhere in Mexico. Prices are not too bad, but if you are heading to Oaxaca, save your money and your pack space and carry the cozy small town ambience with you as a souvenir, instead.
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